Coral Couture
Schiaparelli by Daniel Roseberry
Fashion as an art form has long been debated. Even this year’s Met Gala theme of “Fashion as Art” had most people questioning this vague and open ended statement. However, Schiaparelli’s couture shows are the reason why people like myself tend to think of couture as art.
There’s significance in Roseberry’s collections, as they highlight surrealism and sculpture. When Roseberry was looking for the material that would resemble human skin, he noted that he “found an atelier outside of Paris that makes photo-realistic infants and babies for cinema,” he explained. “They’re silicone experts, and we started working building silicone as material and as objects. Lakes of silicone are poured out on tables, and it becomes like a satin, like a double-faced satin, basically.” Thus, resulting in the manipulation of the material. The result? A perfectly fitted corset, fit for the models. The corset came in blue, white, and pink.
The use of real flowers, needing to be fed sugar and water to maintain their form, both compliments the surrealism and sculptural elements that Roseberry is capable of. Natural seashells and baked fish scales are simply a part of the “Roseberry Experience”. Materials may vary, (such as silicone, latex, paint baked into sheets), but keeping your attention is the standard. It goes without saying that these materials make sound, which adds to the Roseberry Experience. The Roseberry Experience can apply to Roseberry’s beating heart dress found in Haute Couture Fall Winter 2026. In addition, for Roseberry, jewelry functions as a reminder of existence. Metaphorically and literally speaking. In this collection, sea-inspired shell-like jewelry and brooches were seen on models.
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Other materials such as fringe and tulle were utilized in this collection, but the surrealist nature persisted. Emphasis on nature, as a tulle dress was graced with silicone dots, appeared to move. It looked as though it was imitating the pulse of a jellyfish. Similarly, another gown resembled a living coral reef. As the collection progressed, the marine motifs manifested further. On a latex jacket, tentacles had a swaying movement on the shoulders of the model. Additionally, flesh-toned gills adorned the backs of models and bustiers were bejeweled with small LED lights, reminiscent of the bioluminescent organisms, as models advanced down the runway.
As aquatic aesthetics are trending, Roseberry’s coral couture couldn’t have come at a better time.
Until next time! xx
Words by: Emily Glass
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